A rose by any other name
Damask
That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet
Juliet:
O Romeo, Romeo! wherefore art thou Romeo?
Deny thy father and refuse thy name;
Or, if thou wilt not, be but sworn my love,
And I'll no longer be a CapuletRomeo:
[Aside] Shall I hear more, or shall I speak at this?
Juliet:
'Tis but thy name that is my enemy;
Thou art thyself, though not a Montague.
What's Montague? It is nor hand, nor foot,
Nor arm, nor face, nor any other part
Belonging to a man. O, be some other name!
What's in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet;
So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call'd,
Retain that dear perfection which he owes
Without that title. Romeo, doff thy name,
And for that name which is no part of thee
Take all myself.Romeo:
I take thee at thy word:
Call me but love, and I'll be new baptized;
Henceforth I never will be RomeoRomeo and Juliet by William Shakespeare
Damask is the name of the fragrance you actually smell in a rose. It is the standard in the perfume industry with over 300 compounds in it. Because of their different chemistry, these evaporate independently - so the the aroma changes over time.
The name Damask refers to the city of Damascus in Syria, known for its steel (Damask steel), fabrics (Damask) and roses!!!!
A Damask Rose
The Rose plant
The original rose plant - Rosa damascena - was called Rose of Castille. It is derived (we presume bred) from Rosa gallica, Rosa moschata and Rosa fedtschenkoana. These were all ancient roses since pre-Roman times - whom used them to scent rooms after bathing.
Rose petals are also edible ! - used frequently to flavor make jams and jellies.
Rose petal jam - YUM !
The seven scents of a rose
The seven main rose scents are rose (or damask), Nasturtium, Orris (Iris germanica), violets, apple, clove, and lemon (fruit). Some of the highest damask scent can be found in the rose Queen of Denmark, Ispahan (Rosa Pompon de Princes) , and Ipsilante (Rosa gallica). It can also be found in some of the David Austin English roses.
Queen of Denmark
There are 26 other less common odors you may smell in roses including honeysuckle, moss, hyacinth, honey, wine, marigold, peppers, parsley, and raspberry.
Potency
Scents changes with the time of day - early morning is the strongest. This is when roses are harvested for rose oil. They are also most powerful with the first blooms of summer.
The damask can change when cutting and moving from outdoors to indoors. A rose not very fragrant outdoors may be quite scented once in a vase inside. Once a rose is fully open, the fragrance is different from the rose in bud.
The perfume we call rose - Rose Otto
Petals for perfume are commercially grown and harvested near the Kazanlak region in Bulgaria - called the "Valley of Roses". The distillate is called Bulgarian Rose Otto.
Old world rose petal steam distiller in Bulgaria
Rose oil is also extracted in Morocco from Rosa centifolia - also known as the "Rose de Mai".
Roses must be cut before the morning dew on their petals has dried. It must be in the distiller within 2 hours of picking to preserve the fragrance. It takes 2 tons of rose petals to make one kilo of extract. That is about 50 - 60 thousand blooms all picked by hand !
Rose Otto is the essential oil steam distilled from fresh roses - an almost clear pale yellow liquid. When it is very cold it solidifies but it is easily warmed to liquid again. It smells rich, floral, warm and spicy with honey undertones. The smell of fresh roses becomes more apparent at when its diluted. This is the most expensive extract of roses at about $10K a kilo. It is used in premium products both perfumes and cosmetics.
A less expensive extraction is called rose concrete - it is done using a solvent - usually hexane. Its a deep orange colored mass of a jam-like consistency - it is very waxy. The smell is sweet floral, rich woody tea like. This is about $2k a kilo and used mainly in creams or lotions.
In perfumery - rose absolute is when alcohol is used to create a fragrance extraction from either above.
For the scent of damask wafting through your living room from the garden
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Article written by our Staff Horticulturist, Peter B Morris, BSc, MSc, MBA
All photographs used with permission @SHUTTERSTOCK
"Romeo and Juliet" by William Shakespeare (1564-1616) @ in public domain USA