Acclimatization of Indoor Plants
To acclimatize is when an organism adjusts to a change in its environment in order to survive.
When dealing with INDOOR FOLIAGE PLANTS this becomes most apparent to anyone whom recently purchased one !
Most indoor house plants sold in the northeastern US are grown in shade houses in Florida. A land of abundant sunshine, warmth and humidity. When placed in interior spaces the three main issues they have to deal with is reduced light intensity, shorter day length, and a lower humidity.
Typical shade house in sunny Florida - the cloths come in different shade intensity
Leaf Drop
How the plant handles the new light environment depends on the species itself. Some plants are extremely intolerant of light changes. Bucida (common names - bullet tree, black olive tree, ox horn, Gregory wood & Antigua whitewood ) will drop almost 100% of their leaves and then start over again by sprouting new ones in a few weeks.
Most however loose about 30% of the older leaves and adapt all their new leaves to the new conditions as these are pushed out. Regardless, this can be very upsetting for a new plant owner. Remember, the closer you match the light intensity of the new location to the old one the fewer leaves fall.
A full sun grown variegated Ficus with dense foliage and many inner leaves
Older leaves are unable to change and adapt to the new conditions – as they developed in brighter light. It's a tough pass or fail test – they either function at some capacity or if unable, they are dropped by the plant.
The older the leaf or the less light it gets compared to others on the plant, the higher the chance it will be dropped. Those in the center of a shrub that get the least amount of light usually go first.
A fully low light acclimatized Ficus with a center clear and an outer canopy of newer leaves
The new leaves change
New leaves will adapt to lower lighting by becoming thinner, wider and longer. As a result, they can also be floppier or weaker. Petioles (they attach the leaf to the stem) become longer as well, and the inter-node (the space between 2 leaves) becomes longer or stretched out.
These are all adaptations to lower light. The end result is a plant that is stretched out or “fluffier” than when you got it.
Stretched out is a understatement
Brown tips
Low humidity is usually always has the same symptoms – brown or dead leaf tips.
This is exacerbated when using tap water – as this contains chlorine and fluorine and both these cause the same brown tips. Keep in mind photosynthesis drops dramatically in lower light and so does the need for water. A constantly wet soil will also cause brown tips.
A tip about leaf tips: - remove the brown tip only if it is met by a sharp edge - yellowish tissue behind the brown (like in the above picture) means the leaf has not finished browning back !
Leaf coloration
Leaf coloration will also change due to loss of pigment. Many leaf pigments act as a sun block in nature - the less light, the less need for the colored pigment. Photosynthesis is also altered requiring the need for more chloroplasts (the green organelles that manufacture sugar) in the cells to compensate for the lower light.
As a result of these changes - variegated plants will become greener and those with bright colored leaves will get paler and greener as well. Red coloration tends to leave first.
Bright light grown Aglaonema with vivid coloration
Muted coloration in Croton when placed inside - notice how the reds are disappearing
Indoor gardening is all about mimicking the same conditions found in that plants natural environment.
But if you are having problems ....
Call Plant Specialists TODAY !
Our Indoor Plant Care Team can help you with your needs!
Don't delay – the sooner the better !
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Article written by our Staff Horticulturist, Peter B Morris, BSc, MSc, MBA
All photographs used with permission from @SHUTTERSTOCK